Another concern is specialization. Since 1985 the practice of handloading (like every other shooting activity) has become highly focused. The ideal bench for a shotshell reloader does not resemble a bench for a competition handgunner. A rifleman who works with either nitro-express cartridges or old black-powder numbers--to say nothing of the .50 BMG--will have different requirements again.

Fashioning the dovetailed cavities for the inserts requires some careful chiseling and filing in order to make them a neat fit with no gaps but not so snug that they are difficult to remove. Here the bench is seen with its component layers clearly visible, inserts in various stages of completion, the front facing partly applied.

For example, on my first bench I had one old Lyman press, and that was it. Today I use two Reddings (a T-7 turret press and the giant Ultramag) and an RCBS Rockchucker.

The design described here is intended primarily for riflemen but with the versatility to accommodate any tools you might need for occasional work with shotshells or high-volume pistol cartridges.

The finished bench is eight feet long, 18 inches wide and three inches thick. It is constructed from four sheets of 3/4-inch plywood, bonded into a single, solid unit with glue and screws.

At first glance the dimensions seem odd. Only 18 inches deep? In fact, that is more than sufficient for actual loading operations. Making the bench deeper only invites using it as a storage area--not a good idea since that might lead to mixing up powders or primers. Store the components elsewhere, and move them to the bench only when needed. Its width also discourages use as a general work bench.

Then there is height. I am a "stand up" reloader; others prefer to sit. The bench should be installed at the appropriate height. The top surface of mine is 42 inches from the floor.

A finished insert with facing and Redding 2400 case trimmer attached. The inserts allow tools like this to be fastened firmly to the bench when needed but stored out of the way when not in use.

My construction material is slightly different than Clapp's original, which called for a combination of plywood and particle board. The particle board was used for the inner two layers--the ham in the sandwich.

When the time came to build my new bench (and avoid the mistakes of the first) I used the best oak plywood I could find for everything, for two reasons. First, particle board absorbs moisture readily and expands. If either the inserts or the bench itself employs particle board, you will encounter serial fitting problems. This is not a concern in southern California, perhaps, but certainly in other parts of the country.

The other concern was surface durability. The first time around I coated the bench with varnish, but this did not really protect the soft plywood. This time I have hard oak with a simple oil finish. It's durable, easily repaired, and (like a fine gunstock) it will just get better looking as time goes by.

As you can imagine, this is one heavy, solid bench, and when it's lag-bolted to the wall and the legs bolted to the floor, it is solid as a vault.

NOW FOR VERSATILITY
The heart of this bench is its inserts. About two feet from each end are dovetail slots, into which fit plywood inserts that are 1 1/2 inches thick. These are made from two layers of the same material as the bench itself (actually from the narrow plywood strips that remain after the layers are cut to size). Tools are mounted on these inserts, which slide into the dovetails when needed and are stored out of the way when they're not. The inserts are a tight fit and can be made absolutely immovable using through-bolts, if you choose to do so.