Torque Matters: How to Properly Mount Your Scope

I'd made the ride many times before, but it didn't make it easier. My back ached, and my headlamp bounced across the single-track trail. My horse knew the way. She had made the trip countless times as well, and on several occasions, I dozed off, only to be jolted awake.

A shrill bugle sent excitement through my veins. Dawn was cracking, and the rut-stricken warrior was making noise. Tying off our mounts, we moved on foot, closing the distance, using the cedar-sprinkled landscape for cover.

The bull had cows, and rather than trying to call him, we opted to slip in close and let his noisy attitude get him killed. My good buddy, Bill, was up to bat. It happened fast. We slipped around a lone pinyon pine, and there he was. Bill shot. The bull didn't move. Bill shot again. Nothing. Finally, the bull turned to run. I took two steps to my right, threw down, centered my crosshairs on the back of the bull's neck, and squeezed. The shot dropped him in his tracks.

Later, while we stood over the beautiful 6x6 public land bull, we discovered Bill's scope was loose. After a lengthy discussion, I learned he hadn't leveled his scope or applied the manufacturer-recommended torque to the bases or the rings.

Follow Directions

This isn't uncommon. There was a time, early in my hunting career, when I mounted bases, turning the screws so tightly that they nearly stripped. Then I would add the scope, level it with my eye, set my eye relief, and then tighten down the rings with the same aggressiveness. I broke two scopes completely and severely damaged another. Why?

I didn't have a hunting mentor. There was nobody to show me the ropes. Everything I learned, I learned from the school of hard knocks. There have been several hard lessons along the way, but these three instances were particularly challenging and also financially hurtful.

Too much or not enough torque applied to the rings and bases of your rifle-mounted optic will create serious problems.

Properly mounting an optic is an art. You need the know-how and the correct tools for the job. Here's what you need to know about scope mounting from A to Z.

The Proper Tools for the Job

Like many of you, I'm a do-it-yourselfer. However, I've learned, especially when it comes to scope mounting and gunsmithing, that the do-it-yourself route requires the right tools. First, you'll need a gun vise. I prefer Real Avid's Master Gun WorkStation. This one-handed operation device is ideal for cleaning, gunsmith work, and optic mounting.

You'll also need an optic mounting kit. Real Avid makes several. I spent the extra money and went with the manufacturer's Master Grade Scope Mounting & Bore Sighting Kit. This innovative system utilizes a combination of magnets, leveling bubbles, and a scope saddle, among other components, to ensure your scope is perfectly leveled.

Leveling a scope is critical. While an improperly leveled scope may not be noticeable when shooting at close and moderate ranges, it will become increasingly problematic the further you move back from your target. Failure to line up the scope perfectly with the rifle's bore and reticle crosshairs will cause a canting tilt of your scope, and adjustments will be incorrect. Proper scope leveling requires the optic and the bore to be leveled simultaneously, and I've found no better system than Real Avid's Master Grade Scope Mounting & Bore Sighting Kit.

Additionally, the included tripod features an adjustable level and a precision alignment card, making boresighting a breeze. I've used the Master Grade Scope Mounting & Bore Sighting Kit on six rifle/optic combos, and I can start my sight-in process at 100 yards. Because the bore-sighting system is precise, I use less ammunition to achieve my rifle's actual 100-yard zero (or whatever distance I want to zero).

Torque Matters

Of course, leveling, bore-sighting, cleaning, and so on, mean nothing if you don't pay attention to torque or don't have the correct tools to create and measure the necessary amount of torque you plan to apply to the scope bases and rings. Improper torque on the rings and bases will lead to a scope that loosens and slides forward/backward/left/right over time or one that gets damaged. Excessive torque can damage the scope's aluminum body tube and internal components.

Every base/ring manufacturer provides exact torque settings for their rings and bases. These settings aren't suggestions; they are mathematical certainties.

Here are the proper steps for mounting your scope perfectly:

• Read and write down the torque that your rings and bases require. It's not uncommon for one or the other to require more or less torque.
• Place your rifle in Real Avid's Master Gun Workstation. Mount and level the scope using a torque driver set, such as Real Avid's Smart-Torq & Driver Master Set or Smart-Torque Fixed Limiter & X3 Driver Kit.
• Follow the manufacturer's base settings and apply the proper amount of torque to each screw. I prefer to tighten each screw down slowly. If a base screw calls for 22 pounds of torque, I apply 15 to each screw, working in a crisscross motion until all four screws (or however many your base requires) have 15 pounds of torque. Next, I use my Real Avid Smart-Torq Adjustable Limiter & X3 Driver Kit to set every screw to precisely 22 pounds.
• After setting my optic, I lightly tighten the ring screws. This allows me to remove my rifle/scope combo from the Master Gun Workstation and set my eye relief without the scope moving around in the rings.
• Look through the scope and semi-level it by lining up the crosshairs with a distant object, such as a board or pole.
• With the eye-relief set and the scope semi-leveled, I use an X3 Driver, depending on whether the torque settings are fixed or require an adjustable driver to tighten the rings just enough that the optic doesn't move. I then use Real Avid's Master Scope Mounting & Bore Sighting Kit to ensure a perfect level.
• Lastly, I apply the proper amount of torque using the appropriate limiter or adjustable torque limiter to all ring screws.

What I Love About Real Avid's Smart-Torque Driver Kits

I'm using Real Avid's Smart-Torque Fixed Limiter & X3 Driver Kit, as well as the Adjustable Limiter & X3 Driver Kit regularly for optic mounting and gunsmithing chores. I love them both. Both kits are small and compact, allowing me to take them everywhere, whether to the range or on a hunt.

The Fixed Limiter & X3 Driver Kit features six Smart-Torque Limiters in preset torque settings of 15, 20, 25, 45, and 65 in-lb. A click-style overload clutch ensures maximum consistency, and the included X3 Driver is ultra-versatile. The 72-tooth ratcheting driver promises precise adjustments, and the easy-to-create T-handle design allows for added torque. The X3 Driver features 12 driver bits and a square adapter for use with a 1/2-inch socket. I've used the X3 Driver for everything from home repairs to optical mounting, gunsmithing, and every other task.

Even more compact and easy to tote is the Smart-Torq Adjustable Limiter & X3 Driver Kit. The Adjustable Limiter allows for exact torque application between 15 and 65 in-lb increments. I prefer the Adjustable Limiter & X3 Driver for tweener-like in-lb. ring and base settings.

Often, bases may call for 28 in-lbs. of torque and rings for 22 in-lbs. of torque. Every optic manufacturer is different, and this kit is complete with 12 bits, a square adapter, and a 1/2-in. socket.

Both kits come housed in protective cases, ensure a positive grip, and I've yet to experience any product failure. Like all Real Avid's tools, the X3 Driver Kits serve a purpose and make an excellent addition to any gunsmithing tool set.